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As the hotter months come around, those of us with curly, kinky, coily, and Afro hair - from a looser type 3A curl to a tighter 4C curl - are faced with the same issue with how to keep your hair healthy and hydrated when it's hot and humid.
The reason for this comes down to science, as warmer, muggier temperatures actually alter the hair follicles (as they do with any hair texture). On a molecular level, the moisture in the air is swelling and disrupting the cuticle (the outer layer of a hair strand) that would usually result in smooth and shiny strands . Dry heat, on the other hand, draws out moisture from the hair and reduces its capability to retain it, leading to dull, frizzy, and dry hair. This is also why you might notice your curls or coils become less springy during the summer months. The reason we can experience a loss of definition is that the humidity is playing havoc with the hair texture by lifting the cuticle.
Without a strong and reinforced cuticle, hair is also less likely to stand up against the environmental stress and, therefore, becomes dry and brittle. A lack of moisture can also be caused by the UV rays, which dry out the hair as well as strip the pigment; while lack of volume is down to the fact that as we sweat more, the sweat dampens the hair, causing it to look greasy and flat.
Protection Is Vital. UV rays oxidize melanin particles in the cortex of the hair shaft, leading to color fading; it also damages the cuticle and cortex, leading to dry, brittle, dull hair and therefore encouraging breakage over time.
The first way to keep your hair protected in the summer is by wearing protective styles like cornrows, braids, or double-stranded twists, which will help to minimize frizz and keep curly/coily hair nourished.
If you prefer to wear your curls and coils naturally, then it's important to have the right accessories and products on hand. On scorching days, cover your hair with a floppy sun hat or headscarf to minimize the damaging effects of the sun.
Combining a leave-in conditioner with a heat protectant and spreading it through the hair is a great way to deliver conditioning properties to replenish moisture to your hair while protecting it from heat.
Comb Through Your Hair Whilst It's Damp
This is advice you should keep in mind all year round. Textured hair is more prone to breakage due to its coils and curls, which tangle more easily resulting in breakage when combing and/or brushing. Internal fractures can occur when the hair is untwisted or stretched, leading to brittle strands. Try not to brush textured hair when dry, but comb/brush through whilst wet with a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush and be gentle. Afro picks and combs with wide and long teeth work really well.
Always Look After Your Scalp. Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp. A healthy scalp has clean, open pores with good blood flow. It's essential that the hair follicles and scalp are clean and clear and the microbiome is in harmony with a good balance of bacteria.

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